Yongnuo RF-602 Wireless Remote Review

by Dennis on November 4, 2009

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I just received a couple of sets of Yongnuo RF-602 Wireless Remote Control units in the mail. I got them primarily to use for triggering my off-camera flashes and as an added bonus they can also be used to wirelessly trigger a camera including activating an autofocus lens prior to the shutter being released. Professional photographers (also known as photographers with an equipment budget) usually choose PocketWizard brand radio triggers for their paid gigs and no serious (or semi-serious) trigger review can get by without at least mentioning PocketWizards as the standard by which all other wireless remotes are measured. Most people will tell you that if you can afford the PocketWizards to just go ahead and buy them and have no more worries.

In case you are not aware of the cost, the current price of a PocketWizard Plus II Transceiver/Relay Radio Slave – Combined Transmitter or Receiver in One Unit is $169. The thing you need to remember is that you need at least two units to do anything, which is basically to trigger your flash units (or camera) with solid reliability over ridiculously long distances while never being bothered about tripping over a bunch of messy sync cables.

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For those of us without expense accounts or annual hardware budgets, there are inexpensive though “somewhat” unreliable flash triggers that can be purchased under various brand names from online retailers and auction sites. Low cost, sketchy construction and the reliability of a love stricken teenager have given them affectionate nicknames such as “PovertyWizards” and “FleeBay Triggers.”  The good news is that there are a lot more choices now than in the past for budget priced flash triggers. Since my old Cactus V2 units were getting long in the tooth and didn’t seem to be cutting the flash mustard for outdoor shoots; I decided to go in search of the illusive, legendary, low cost and reliable remote flash trigger. If I want it bad enough and have faith it must exist.

A good place to start looking for anything related to flash photography is over at the strobist group on www.flickr.com where you will find lots of useful information along with colorful opinions about what works and what does not. The Yongnuo 602 triggers seemed to be getting the most chatter lately so after careful consideration and the realization of my lack of available funds for anything more expensive, I decided to order a couple of sets of the Yongnuo remotes and test them for myself.

I guess if you somehow stumbled over here by accident you might be asking, “Why do I need wireless flash triggers anyway?” Simple – there are no wires; and no wires means you can put your lights almost anywhere you want to without being restricted to the length of a sync cord or even tripping over the wire and knocking over your expensive flash or precious camera. Without wires you have better working range and greater flexibility so you can back up or move around easily. You can also put the flash behind things or even outside a closed window, which is sort of like having the power to walk through walls. Trust me, wireless triggers are a good thing and you want them. With Nikon cameras and dedicated flashes we have something called the Creative Lighting System or CLS for short. It works great in places where the flashes can directly “see” another flash on the camera that is set to send command signals with exposure information from the camera metering system or in other setups where the camera command signals can bounce off of walls or ceilings to be seen when the flash units do not have a direct line of sight. CLS works great for a lot of applications but has some limitations like range and the need for a direct (or semi direct) line of sight in order to communicate with the on camera commander flash or dedicated commander unit. In case you have not already guessed, you need Nikon flashes to use the  CLS system.

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In this review I am going to be talking about using the RF-602 with Nikon cameras and flashes in manual mode. Specifically the Nikon D300 camera and Nikon SB600 flash units. The Yongnuo transmitters and receivers come in different versions, which basically relate to the pin configuration on the camera hot shoe and the matching foot on the remote transmitter and receivers. There is supposed to be a wake-up function for flash units that have a standby or power saving option and that requires the correct pin layout to be able to communicate with the flash. My initial test of that function using an SB600 flash failed. The work around for now is to disable the standby mode in the custom setting menu on the flash. I hate to say it but that particular “feature” on the SB600 flash is more trouble than it is worth. When used directly on the camera the flash wakes up whenever you half-press the shutter release and it should work the same way on the triggers as well, or at least that is what I was led to believe based on the RF-602 instruction manual. I doubt if there is actually much of a savings in battery power using the standby mode unless you were to inadvertently leave the camera on all day and night. Just remember to turn off the standby mode on the SB600 and everything should be fine. If I find a better solution I’ll post an update. I suspect the problem is with the receiver wiring to the hot shoe because the half press function works fine when used with the 3 pin shutter release cable and the indicator light on the receiver turns green when the shutter is pressed half way.

I did send an email to Yongnuo asking about the wake up feature and got a response back that basically asked me to try it on a different flash like an SB800. I don’t happen to have one of those handy at the moment and I’m not likely to be buying one in the future since they have been discontinued by Nikon. I may try to borrow one sometime soon just to satisfy my own curiosity. I’m pretty confident that it will not work  on the hot shoe either but I have a feeling that if I had a three pin to pc sync port cable that it would. The three pin connector seems to be wired correctly but the hot shoe does  not. That’s my theory but if I was truely adventurous, I would take one of the receivers apart and verify my suspicions.

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I sent another email to Yongnuo this afternoon because when I was doing my range tests today the metal foot came off of the transmitter when I tried sliding it on to the camera hot shoe. I was a little confused at first and thought that the pins where sticking out of the base too far so I looked over at the hot shoe on the camera and saw that the metal foot from the transmitter was still in the hot shoe and that the three screws used to hold it to the transmitter casing had come out inside the transmitter. I was sort of in disbelief for a few seconds until I remembered that these are inexpensive Chinese remotes. Of course something is going to go wrong, that’s just part of the deal. I decided that this would at least be a good test for Yongnuo’s customer service department but I was a little unhappy to have my plans for the rest of the sunny afternoon interrupted by a defective piece of equipment.

Back to the range testing… Preliminary tests in front of my high rise building last night showed reliable triggering at 120 feet. When I got up this morning I did a scan from my front window and found 47 wireless network signals. I don’t know if these two things are related or not but it seemed worth noting that radio interference may affect range and reliability. Based on the results that other people have posted online, I decided to retest in a different location. I went over to Forest Park where there are a couple of big soccer fields surrounded by more open space. I brought along a thirty-foot tape measure and put a Sunpak 383 flash on a light stand so it was about four feet off the ground. Since I was by myself I had to walk back and forth to move the flash but it was a nice day so I didn’t really mind. I was able to fire consistently at 250 feet holding the transmitter in my hand.

Some people claim that the range is increased when you touch the transmitter because your body acts as an additional antenna. I’m not sure if that is true or not and since the metal mounting plate fell off the trigger I was not able to verify that the shutter was actually syncing beyond 200 feet even though the flash continued to fire when I measured it for the last time at 250 feet. In fact I could fire the flash with just the transmitter in my hand all the way from goal to goal. Unfortunately I didn’t measure that distance and when I went to check the standard dimensions for a soccer field online, I found out that soccer fields actually vary depending on where they are. It’s no wonder that soccer is not the national sport here. 

The bottom line is that I am very happy with the increase in range of these remotes over my Cactus V2 triggers. I’m sure that everyone will have slightly different results depending on their local conditions anyway, not to mention a few people who are prone to making wildly exaggerated claims to impress their internet peers. I don’t have a lens long enough to really need that much range but on the other hand I would not want to be constantly working at the limit of useable range either. It’s good to have more range than you need or think you need.

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I’ve already hinted at quality concerns. Some people may want to compare the RF-602 remotes to the Cactus triggers which up until recently were among the favorite choices for inexpensive  remote flash triggers.  One thing I didn’t like was the little swivel foot on the Cactus triggers and I was sure that one day I would break one by accidentally over-tightening it in an effort to support the weight of the flash (so far so good). On the RF-602 I’m not wild about the little battery (trap) door on the transmitter but at least it has a door so you don’t need a screwdriver just to change the battery. It’s hard to say if one or the other of these kits could stand up better to abuse. It’s like asking which would bruise easier, an apple or a pear? I’m sure the answer is both. I guess the idea is that these remotes are cheap enough to be easily replaced when the time comes. My recommendation is to use some of the savings from your low cost triggers to buy a backup set so that when one of the receivers or transmitter units eventually fails (possibly on the first day out) that you are not out of business.

The RF-602 remotes have several features I like. The direct mount to a hot shoe means I don’t have to buy any additional connectors or cables. In fact I was happy to discover that these units ship with a couple of useful cables as part of the kit. What kind and how many may vary depending on who your supplier is and what brand of camera you order them for. Be sure to verify what is included in your order when you buy anything online. I was a little suspicious about the quality of the cables before I saw them but for the money I think they are actually pretty nice. I’m hoping they hold up in use but since most people will be using the remotes primarily for hot shoe flashes the cables should not be a problem.

I also like the lower profile of the RF-602 receivers compared to the Cactus V2 for using on umbrella mounts so that the flash sits a little closer to the center of the light modifier. For some reason it just looks a little more professional and less prone to accidental movement.

It’s pretty cool that this set can also function as a wireless shutter release (or cable-less cable release if you prefer). Unfortunately the length of your exposure is going to be limited to 30 seconds because the transmitter does not lock the shutter when in bulb mode. You could hold the button down on the transmitter for thirty minutes to take star trail photos but I’m guessing you wouldn’t enjoy that very much and at the same time it would kill your batteries. For most things short of 30 minute bulb exposures I usually get by with just using the cameras self timer. I think the remote shutter release might be very useful for sporting events where you could place a remote camera near a goal line to take a wide shot at the same time you where taking a close-up with a long lens on another camera.

I also like the function lights on the 602 transmitters and how the flashing light on the receiver reminds me that it is still turned on. The switch on the receiver is flush and has a solid feel when you turn the unit on or off, plus it is clearly labeled so there is no guessing which direction is off or on unlike the tiny switch on the Cactus receivers.

The hot shoe on the receivers is brand specific and the lock on my SB600 flash works well with those. On the Cactus V2 there was a real danger of the flash sliding out of the hot shoe because there is no hole for the locking pin. My Sunpak flash has a little locking wheel that works fine on just about anything so there are no problems with the Cactus V2 if you have that sort of arrangement on your flash

Another interesting feature is that it looks like it is possible to use two transmitters on different channels as a radio relay or signal repeater to increase your effective trigger range, though this is probably going to reduce your maximum sync speed at the same time. Since my second transmitter fell apart today I won’t be able to test this trick feature but others have and say it works. I can’t say how or when that might be useful but it sounds pretty cool.

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Another hot topic of discussion of discussion when it comes to wireless flash triggers is maximum sync speed or the maximum shutter speed that can be used when taking flash photos. Basically the shutter has to be open at the same time that the flash goes off. It’s actually a little more complicated than that because most camera shutters have what is known as front and rear curtain shutters. In simple terms this means that the shutter opening is really a moving slit that travels across the frame and in order to get a proper exposure the flash has to fire between the time that the first curtain opens and the second curtain closes. That timing in what really determines the maximum sync speed.

Many people seem to be confused about why the flash triggers do not seem to be able to sync above a certain shutter speed on different brands of cameras. The short answer is that sync speed is limited by the maximum sync speed of each camera. On the Nikon D300 the maximum sync speed is 1/250th of a second. There are times when it does not seem to work at the stated maximum sync speed and the most common cause generally appears to be low or weak batteries in the transmitter or receivers of the wireless remote system. Electrical interference and physical obstructions may also prevent syncing the flash at the maximum available speed.

The main thing to remember is that you are not going to be able to sync correctly at a shutter speed that is higher than what the camera manufacturer states as the maximum. There may be some crazy exceptions to the rule if the specifications actually lean to the conservative side in favor of reliability. I decided to run another unscientific test for maximum sync speed and grabbed my trusty old retired Nikon D70 out of the closet. The D70 has a maximum sync speed of 1/500th of a second because of its electronic shutter. I tested the D70 at 1/500th with the Yongnuo triggers and got perfectly synced photos with no problems working indoors at close range. That was not a very demanding test but it did show that the system was able to sync to the maximum available speed with that camera. Yongnuo claims the ability to sync up to 1/250th second but the triggers do not seem to be a limiting factor if the camera has a higher sync speed available.

Something else that other reviews have pointed out is the need to be cautious about using older high voltage flashes with the RF-602 triggers. I guess you will have to read the specifications for your older flashes or have them tested to see if they exceed the allowed voltage for the Yongnuo remotes. I’ve already had the pleasure of blowing up all my old flashes so I can’t help you sort out any compatibility issues. The rule seems to be never to mount anything on the RF-602 receivers that you wouldn’t dare to mount directly on your camera.

My initial conclusion (barring any troubles getting my defective transmitter replaced) is that the RF-602 transmitter and receivers are a big improvement over my old Cactus V2 wireless flash triggers. For occasional use they may be all you ever need to control your off-camera flashes in manual mode. For prime time use they might still keep me awake at night worrying about what could go wrong on the next day’s photo shoot but to offset my concerns I could probably afford to purchase a spare set (or two) of the RF-602 wireless triggers and still be under the cost of a set of PocketWizards, Cybersyncs, or RadioPopper remotes.

{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }

Spencer November 7, 2009 at 4:11 pm

If you can’t get the shoeless TX replaced, I’d be interested in seeing if you were able to open up the unit without destroying it. My TX was intermittent today, but I was in a laboratory with some fairly significant RF field in the vicinity. When I got home, it was still on the fritz until I took the battery out a couple of times and put it back it, shook it, etc. I’m not sure if it was the battery removal or the shaking, but it’s working fine again here at home. Fortunately, the built-in optical wireless system bailed me out and I was able to get my shots.

It was troublesome to have the thing fail and then somewhat randomly “repair” itself. I’d like to open it up and see if there is a poor solder joint or something, but I won’t attempt that until I either see that it can be done without breakage or until I receive my backup spare that I immediately ordered when I returned home. The beauty of these things is that you can give buy about 3 backups of everything and *still* not have spent what one Pocket Wizard would have cost.

Dennis November 7, 2009 at 7:02 pm

Thanks for the comment Spencer. I sent the transmitter back to Yongnuo the other day because I figured that if I tried to open it and it broke (which seemed pretty likely) then I would be out twenty bucks (or more) for a new one because as far as I can tell, you can only order the transmitter as part of a set which is around $40. The recievers are available separately. The RF-602 does not have an optical trigger like the previous model CTR-301 so I would have been hosed if I was working on something other than testing the units. I would be curious to know how many units fail out of 100 or 1000. When you only have two transmitters a 50% failure rate could cause headaches.

I sent Yongnuo an email letting them know I had sent the defective unit back and the URL where I posted photos of the postage receipt and the defective unit. Prior to that they stated that if I showed proof I had mailed it they would send the replacement right away. That was a couple of days ago and I have not gotten a response back yet…

Spencer November 9, 2009 at 1:24 pm

Thanks for letting me know on the return status. FWIW, DealExtreme.com sells a single RX/TX kit for $30. I went that route to save hassle and time of trying to get a replacement… I’ll have a fifth receiver now, to boot.

Dennis November 9, 2009 at 7:09 pm

I’ve been updating the status of the return over at flickr for now. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dennisdixson/4078466652/

I’ll update this post when I get a final resolution. It is interesting to note that other vendors actually sell these units for less money than Yongnuo does. I went with Yongnuo for no other reason than they are a preferred seller on ebay.

Thanks again for commenting.

rockjano November 20, 2009 at 5:09 am

I just got my 1 transmitter4 receiver unit, and it works great . I already ordered one more receiver-transmitter combo to drive the flashmeter along with my studio strobes.

As the wake-up function is concerned my SB 800 works, wakes up, also my very old SB24 (funny) but the SB600 does not!!! Strange

Dennis November 20, 2009 at 9:00 am

Thanks for posting that. I have not had a chance to test them with the SB800 or the SB900.

I’m still waiting on my replacement transmitter. I keep thinking it should show up any day now.

bozeman December 20, 2009 at 2:30 am

I have a Nikon D70s, two Nikon SB-28 Flashes, two cactus V2 receivers and one modified transmitter and can sync remotely at 1/800 of a second. Putting the SB-28 directly on the D70s, the sync speed halts at 1/500 of a sec. But just putting a small strip of electrical tape over the 2 connectors on the back of the camera hotshoe or on the TTL cord (a trick from strobist.com) the flash will sync at any speed up to 1/8000 of a sec. (the top sync speed for the D70s). I tried this with a Nikon SB-600 and it worked too. I only shoot on manual. Can you try this with The Yongnuo RF-602 to see if it will sync faster than 1/500 of a sec?
Thank you

Dennis December 20, 2009 at 10:57 am

I tried taping the connectors on the Nikon D70 and was only able to sync up to 1/800th second. After that I got the blinking flash warning. There may be some differences in the way your D70s works.

When I was testing the Pixel 331 remotes I noticed that the D70 seemed happy to sync at just about any speed, at least when I could get the TX and RX units to work correctly which was not very often. Pixel states they have worked out the issues with the Nikon SB600 but I have not been able to test this for myself.

Shaun Donnelly January 18, 2010 at 10:28 pm

I recently purchased the yongnuo RF 602tx wireless controller. The first hour or two all three remotes worked great, then all three of them just stopped working? I tried replacing the batteries but it didn’t help. The lights work but not the switch. I tested it and on all three the switch apears to be stuck in the on position. I read the part about blowing them up with older flashes and that sounds like me. I have one new 480 and 3 dinasours I bought at goodwill.
I’m not patient enouph to send them back to Hong Kong so I’ll probably try fixing them myself. I was wondering? have you any experience with replacing a cheap electromagnetic switch with one of higher quality?

Payam January 19, 2010 at 3:06 am

Hi Dennis and thanks for your review.
I ask from a guy in Yong nuo and he said that the RF-602 work in bulb mode. Are you sure you must to hold the button down ?

Dennis January 19, 2010 at 8:57 pm

Shawn – my soldering skills are a bit rusty. I managed to melt a small hole in the side of my Cactus triggers when I was doing the antenna mod.

Payam – I just retested the RF-602 on my Nikon D300 and I do have to hold the transmitter button down (in bulb mode) as long as I want the shutter to remain open.

I also have a Cleon remote shutter release and on that unit the camera shutter will stay open after you press the transmitter button for about 2-3 seconds. You can close the shutter by pressing the transmitter button a second time. I have not tested the range on the Cleon remote. I usually use it at close range to take photos without vibrating the camera on the tripod.

Dan January 22, 2010 at 8:39 am

What can you say about getting the sync speed up to 1/640 with the half-press trick? I am on the verge of buying an SB-600, Vivitar 285, and a set of these RF-602′s, but I’d like to be sure I can sync at a minimum of 1/500 if I need to.

Thanks Dennis, this is a great review!

Dan

Didecus January 27, 2010 at 11:53 am

Payam; I use the RF-602 with my d300 in bulb mode, only shoot (without hold) in wire mode:
Put the transmitter on the receiver hotshoe, and shoot with the transmitter button and release (after all the time of your need expose) put in off the receiver.

Payam February 6, 2010 at 11:25 pm

Thanks Didecus
You mean put the transmitter on the receiver hotshoe and connect the receiver with cable to camera?

Dennis April 6, 2010 at 8:26 am

The tranmitter is basically on only at the moment it sends the signal. I always take the battery out of mine because the test button has such a light touch that it goes off inside the camera bag.

Payam April 11, 2010 at 9:02 am

I can sync with D50 and RF-602 up to 1/800 sec. with my studio flashes without any problem!!

mike April 19, 2010 at 9:15 am

Hi,

Could you tell me how to work this as a remote shutter please? I just cannot figure it out from the manual and two cables supplied.

Many Thanks!

Dennis April 20, 2010 at 6:11 pm

What kind of camera do you own? You have to have the correct cable to connect the reciever to yor camera. My D300 uses a ten pin connector on the front of the camera but a D90 uses a different connector. The cables are camera specific so hopefully you ordered the correct cable with your transmitter and receiver set.

The good news is that you can order the cables from Yongnuo if you have the wrong one.

Nick April 21, 2010 at 2:33 am

I just want to say that I have RF602 for remote flash. It will not keep awake or wake up my SunPak PZ42X, which cannot allow the sleep to be turned off.

Nick

Nick April 21, 2010 at 10:33 pm

Mike

You need the cable that matches your camera’s remote shutter release input. You can buy cables separately if you do not have that. You then attach the receiver to the camera using that cable. The receiver then fires the camera instead of a flash, when you pres the transmitter button.

Nick April 21, 2010 at 10:34 pm

If I attach the Tx to the Rx hotshoe, then activate, it says on without holdung the button down. The only trouble is that without removing the TX from the receiver hotshoe, I cannot stop it!

Nick

Nick April 21, 2010 at 10:37 pm

Regarding the fact that certain flashes will not stay awake or be woken by the unit, I discovered that my PZ42X has one pin that _will_ keep the camera awake if fired within the wake period and will also wake the flash if needed, when shorted to the centre pin. By simply shorting that other pin to ground, my flash now stays awake and can be woken if needed.

I don;t know if every flash has this, or what pin would be used. Also you short pins on your flash at your own risk!

Nick

Nick

giulio April 23, 2010 at 4:50 am

hallo, I purchased an RF-602 3 days ago, I have a speedlite yn465 and a Nikon D60, but I couldn’t connect these two with the wireless flash tigger… how can i do?

Dennis April 23, 2010 at 10:00 am

Insert the transmitter in the hotshoe of your camera and put your flash in the hotshoe of the receiver. Turn on the receiver and the flash. Set your camera to manual mode and a shutter speed of 1/200th second. Set the aperature at f/8 to start with and take a test shot. Adjust the aperature to control the light from the flash. If your flash has manual adjustment you can also change the power output on the flash to control exposure and vary the distance from the flash to the subject.

IP camera July 31, 2010 at 2:54 pm

Nice work! great blog

Dennis August 9, 2010 at 7:37 am

Just in case anyone is wondering how these triggers hold up over time; I am still using them and have recently ordered several more to go with my growing set of flashes. I also like to always have at least one spare. I still have not found anything better in this price range.

Andy August 12, 2010 at 2:31 pm

Hi all,
I have two RF-602RX receivers connected to studio strobes and a receiver connected to my Canon 7D’s remote terminal, when I fire the RF-602TX transmitter the strobes fire, but the camera’s shutter releases too late and misses the flash.
Has this happened to anyone else?
I wrote about the problem in more detail here
http://www.andrewwraggphotography.co.uk/2010/08/yongnuo-rf-602-wireless-flash-triggers/

Dennis August 12, 2010 at 5:00 pm

I don’t have any direct experience with the Canon system but I think to make this work you need a second transmitter and receiver on another channel to release the camera shutter before the flash so it will be in sync.

I’ve been meaning to try this myself for a while. I guess I have a good excuse now.

Andy August 16, 2010 at 1:46 pm

Hi Dennis,
Thanks for replying, and you are definitely right. I’ve got this set-up working with a second transmitter. So the first transmitter triggers the camera and the second transmitter (in the camera’s hot-shoe) triggers the flashes.

No matter which remote trigger you are using, you will need two transmitters on different channels if you wish to remotely trigger the camera and external flashes at the same time.

Cheers
Andy

Dennis August 18, 2010 at 2:36 pm

I bought mine from hkyongnuophotoequipment. The shipping was free. Mine arrived in twelve days. I’m not saying that’s typical because of holidays, strikes and a host of other issues that might come up.

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